Neil Perry
It’s a tough job, but someone had to do it. Neil Perry nominates the 10 best dishes of 2011.
Meat Fruit at Dinner By Heston Blumenthal
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park,
66 Knightsbridge, London, UK.
+44 2 07201 3833.
dinnerbyheston.com
Heston likes to have a bit of fun. So the parfait is encased in mandarin jelly in the shape of a mandarin, and we were asked not to eat the real stem and leaves – they wouldn’t have been as tasty as the rest. A magical, delicious starter.
Maccaronara with Ragu alla Napoletana at A16
2355 Chestnut Street, San Francisco, USA.
+1 415 771 2216.
a16sf.com
Simple, with a perfect balance of taste and texture. The springy, handmade pasta has a wonderful bite, the tomato sauce is enlivened by the complexity of pancetta and pork. Salty cheese provides the perfect finish. Heaven.
Oysters and Pearls at Per Se
Level 4, 10 Columbus Circle, New York, USA.
+1 212 823 9335.
perseny.com
Everything is incredible, from the service and wine list to the view over Central Park. And, the supreme cooking. Oysters are poached in a butter vermouth sauce and textured with tapioca before a great big dollop of caviar is spooned on top. An all-time favourite.
Wagyu Beef Sukiyaki at Azuma
Level 1 Chifley Plaza, 2 Chifley Square, Sydney, NSW.
+61 2 9222 9960.
azuma.com.au
The wagyu beef is so melt-in-the-mouth it could be eaten raw, but it’s lightly cooked in a broth seasoned with soy and mirin, then dipped in a beaten raw egg. Vegetables and noodles are added and the last of the stock can be drunk like soup.
Fillet of Sole Daumont at Next
953 West Fulton Market, Chicago, USA.
+1 312 226 0858.
nextrestaurant.com
The menu of historically accurate cuisine changes every three months. I was there for its Escoffier-inspired Paris 1906 period and it was a knockout. The fish, rolled in a crayfish mousse, is served with various stuffed crayfish garnishes and a gratinated crayfish sauce.
Veal Sweetbreads at Noma
93 Strandgade, Copenhagen, Denmark.
+45 3296 3297.
noma.dk
Cooked to perfection and served with peas and gathered herbs. The sweetbread texture is nothing short of melting; perfect balance to the dressing’s deep herbaceous flavour.
Tranche of Turbot at The River Café
Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, London, UK.
+44 20 7386 4200.
rivercafe.co.uk
I order this every time I visit. Wood-fire roasted to perfection, the fish is succulent and gelatinous on the bone.
Pork Jowl with Liquorice Root at The Ledbury
127 Ledbury Road, London, UK.
+44 20 7792 9090.
www.theledbury.com
A fabulous tasting menu, and then the pork jowl came out stabbed with liquorice root and cooked until the flesh was melting and the skin crisp and shattering.
Mud Crab with Ginger and Egg Noodles at Flower Drum
17 Market Lane, Melbourne, Victoria.
+61 3 9662 3655.
flower-drum.com
One of the great Cantonese restaurants and it’s in Melbourne – how lucky are we? The breast meat is mixed in with the noodles while one of the claws is left whole to perch in all its glory on the side of the plate. The sauce is simple – ginger, spring onion, master stock – and the noodles freshly made.
Vacherin of Pandan Custard, Coconut Parfait, Jasmine Sorbet and Lime Granita at Rockpool
107 George Street, The Rocks, Sydney, NSW.
+61 2 9252 1888.
rockpool.com
My favourite dessert of last year, offering a complexity of flavours and textures. It also looks good – all those clean lines and light shades. It tastes like a very grown-up and wickedly delicious Pine Lime Splice.
Source Qantas The Australian Way January 2012
